Of the Nuer Speaking Lands

Across the flat, tree-less swamps of southern Unity State and passed the hundreds of happily grazing cows, you stumble across the slight higher lands that allow the settlement of Ganyliel. Just two hours walk from a small port on the Nile, traders fill the market with goods from further afield. In the early evening, the market is also scattered with boys selling the fish they have just caught in the surrounding waters. At about this time of year and until November, when the rains start to pour down on South Sudan, the swamps rise and this higher settlement becomes an island of muddy clay in this vast swamp. They are a population only reached through the water and on boats that come up the Nile. Yet, taken early in the war by the SPLA and due to its proximity to the Nile, Ganyliel grew to be a strategic centre for various battles and populations during the war. Long a pastoralist community, the war-time armament and military training has left a new era of deadly cattle raiding with surrounding communities. Over two dozen people were killed during a raid into a neighbouring state in the couple of weeks I was there.


Pray For:
1) The Cattle-Keepers of Surrounding Ganyliel
Their lives are rich in milk, companionship and the beauty of their landscape and livestock. Yet, the encroaching changes of war-time and peace-time South Sudan seem a burden to them. Many are still dying. Pray for wisdom and understanding of the leaders amongst them and the leaders who have power over them.
2) People Working in Ganyliel During the 1990s and heavy years of fighting, charities and the UN poured into the county surrounding Ganyliel to support its people. They encouraged agriculture, provided basic education and health care. Yet, soon after the peace, with new demands on the charities, almost all of them left. It is a remote and difficult place to work. Yet, it is also an area with much need: there is no secondary school in the county; there is no functioning hospital in the county, with the only health clinics are few clinics; there are only a couple of cars in the county so people cannot access services outside. There is now one charity providing health care for the county, with two foreign workers (a Ugandan and a Kenyan). Pray that they are strong and compassionate for the work ahead.

Further north, as you travel along a more dusty road and through a familiar-looking, Southern Sudanese forest, the road suddenly becomes surrounded with a dense collection of palm trees. They only subside to make way for small homes, tidily fenced with the leaves of the palms. Nyal is another large village in this Nuer-speaking county. Adjacent to a large lake, fish, sugar cane, maize, sorghum, mangoes and groundnuts are eaten in season in this little oasis. It almost seems that God did not deny Nyal anything when he gave fruits to its soil. For the few nights I was there, I would swim in the lake with the children before retreating to the swept and organised home of a local lady for fresh, white, fried fish. Caught that afternoon, it could not have been sweeter. It was a truly beautiful place.

 Pray that one day South Sudan will have the infrastructure for villages like Nyal to share its abundance with surrounding villages and the rest of the land. When you see such an oasis, you wonder how any one in South Sudan can sleep hungry. Yet, to the nearest town is a ten hour drive in a Land Cruiser. There is no way out for the food.

As I Travel to Unity

This is just a quick note, as I travel through the urban sprawl of Rumbek on my way to Unity State. The week has been filled with adventures. There is so much prayer needed for this land and especially for those at the cattle camps who face violence and the fear of it on a daily basis. Yet, I have been grateful to sit with strangers, drink fresh milk, sip warm tea and listen to their stories. It is such a privilege. And I am grateful that I have been kept safe as I travel.

As I type, rain is pouring down and the compound's paths have long been flooded to resemble a large lake. Our long (five or six hour) journey to Unity State tomorrow promises to be full of mud. I would really appreciate your prayers. I am tempted to be tired, but am also aware that it is a true privilege to go to the grazing lands in Unity State and spend time with a people I may never have the chance to meet again. I am sure God can travel with me.

A few hundred miles away, the teachers have safely settled at Marol. Please pray that this new community grows to be a family as fast as it did last year.

Teachers and the Toic

As I write, four Kenyan teachers are waiting for the boarding call in Nairobi's international airport to send them to South Sudan and onto Marol Academy.  The rains have now started, so they will be welcomed by the growing green of the fields.  As the wet season appears, the cattle are starting to return from pasture and the numbers at school swell further as more people return to the drier lands near Marol.

New Teachers
Loice and three new Kenyan teachers (Thomas, Lawrence and Elkana) today fly from Nairobi to South Sudan.  All being well, they will spend their first night in the village tomorrow night (Monday) as the new member of the Marol Family.  Please pray for ease of travel, especially now the rains are heavy and they will be landing on a small airstrip.  Also pray for a strength of spirit as their faith to come is confronted with the challenges of daily life at Marol.  Pray that they quickly become a family and feel at home with Gordon, Joyce and Floyd who are already there.  Yet, most of all, pray that God will use their faith and sacrifice to come to do amazing things amongst that community.

Funding For New Teachers
The Marol Family now includes five volunteer Kenyan teachers.  All straight out of university, they have had little chance to save to fund this service.  Therefore, we are seeking to sponsor them to cover the cost of transport, visas, food and a small incentive to spend on living essentials.  It costs about 2,000 GBP to support a teacher for a year (or about 170 GBP per month).  Some already have sponsorship but we have stepped out in faith to invite the others to Marol, confident that it is God's plan and that he will provide.

The Lakes-Unity Toic
Tomorrow, for a week or so, I will travel to the village of Amok Piny in the toic (grazing lands) between Lakes and Unity States.  It has been the sight of heavy raiding in the past, but I will be there to spend time with the cattle keepers as they return from the furthest reaches of their pastures.  It is the most remote place I have ever spent time (I think) as it sounds a great distance from even one, grass-roofed market stall.  It is a daunting privilege to be able to travel there.  Pray for that my spirit will be strong when I am in this unfamiliar place.  Pray, also, for good weather - it sounds as if, in a few more rains the village will be permanently cut off by road from other settlements.

The North and New Things

Continuing North-South Contests
The North and South of Sudan continue to compete with words and bombs as old tensions are brought back to the surface. A new UN resolution is a firm attempt to try to bring the two sides to the negotiating table and prevent full-scale war, yet it is still unclear what the next days will bring. In the village the main concern is the escalating food prices. A sack of maize is now three times what it cost just over a year ago. People feel that they will not be able to afford to feed their families. Yet, they are far from the immediate violence: www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-17954805

New Soldiers
Along the gravel road, the newly recruited soldiers walked through the day and the night behind the waving South Sudan flag. Having signed up in the main market village, they have a few days walk to the nearest barracks. With tensions increasing against the North, they have been enthusiastic to sign up to the Southern army to defend their new nation. Most of the recruits are in their twenties and have been sent with the praise of their community. Yet, scattered amongst their number, are much younger boys. Pray for these people and all that is ahead of them.

New School
On Tuesday, the ground was broken to dig the foundations of Marol Academy Secondary School. Having borrowed a classroom from the primary school last year, there was a massive demand for the secondary school to have a home of its own. Bricks were delivered using the school's truck and with the help of another truck in the community. Now the mountains of bricks await the builders. Funding for the whole construction is still not secured, but it seemed the right step of faith to start building. People walked around the dug foundations, praying for blessing and protection. There is much need for prayer for this young secondary school at the moment and for protection of all that God is building here.

New Adventures
As strange as it feels to leave Luonyaker, on Monday I will travel away from the familiar pastures of Gogrial East County for a good few weeks. First, I will travel to Kenya to complete university assignments and rest. After a week I will return to South Sudan but will head to Lakes State (another Dinka speaking region a little further south). I have been invited to do a little research, for one month, in that different terrain on possible ways to build peace amongst the communities. It is a privilege to go but I am already tired and fear the energy needed for any new environment. Prayers for rest, work and new adventures would be much appreciated.

Waiting and War

As yesterday drew to a close, I sat in the shade of my friend (Bol)'s tukal listening to his radio and the news from Kuajok (the state capital). The news started with the reading out of primary exam results for each school. Post lots of labour by a handful of very dedicated teachers, Marol Academy stood out as one of the best in the state. Yet, the radio's news quickly turned to whispers of war and the growing support for the SPLA operations on the Northern border. War has become a spoken of possibility. Yet, as we listened to messages of recruitment and funding, Bol's goats trotted home after a day's grazing. His one and three year old daughters rushed to the side of a large, black and white goat. Bending down on the floor and smiling with broad smiles, they drank the warm, fresh milk of the goat straight from its udders. They could not have been more happy and their childhood could not seem more perfect. Whatever happens between Khartoum and Juba, I just pray that their lives don't notice.

Things for prayer:

• War As much as this is scattered across the headlines, the bombings and attacks that are taken place along the border are still not the daily concern here in the village. The area where the North are bombing is adjacent to our county. Yet, it is across an ethnic and administrative boundary. People never directly travel to this neighbouring area. So, people feel very distant from there and all that is happening. There are whispers of thoughts of war as people listen to all that's going on. Increasing, voluntary army recruitment is spoken of. Yet, the daily concerns of the village still potter through lost cows, declining grain stores and waiting for the rains. www.thecitizen.info is a good source of ongoing news if you're interested. 
• Waiting for Rain The sun had already fallen when the wind blew the first rains of 2012 over Luonyaker. Swirling around the homes and crashing to the ground, the rains made a dramatic entrance. Yet, they were short and the ground absorb the water as if it was just a drop. The real rains are still far away. Yet, there is still happiness in people's hearts to be reminded that the rains will come again. It's as if they doubted and wondered whether the rains would forget them this year. But a season of good rain is crucial for boosting low harvest stores. Please pray for rain. Waiting for Teachers Gordon and Joyce are now safely settled at Marol Academy. Floyd has also joined them and is starting to find his way around as the school prepares to open. Please pray that he won't be too lonely at Marol and that he'll have all he needs. We are also still desperately praying that God would stir other Kenyan, graduate, Christian teachers like Floyd to head north to South Sudan. There is a strong possibility that a Agriculture teacher and two others who might be willing to join us. Do pray that there will be no complications and that they will be able to travel to us in the next couple of weeks.

Travel and Toic

At this time of year, when the rains seems a faint memory, the southern half of our country turns to sand. This dry area, where Marol is located, is known as the Pathuon. Yet, if you travel north east for an hour by car, you reach the river. Across the river is the toic and a land with more water. To eat fish and to graze their cattle, much life of the community moves cross the river bed to spend these months far away in the toic. To learn of their laws and hear of their conflicts, this week has seen me take three trips up to the toic.

With the river dry, cars can pass through the river bed. Yet, the dense sand brings many cars to a halt. On Wednesday, our car was stuck four times in various parts of the river's thick sands. Yet, even the sandy muddle reminded me that this county has become home. The last time we were stuck, our car had become lodged deep in the sand and the evening was starting to draw in. There were only a few of us in the car, including children. I knew we would never be able to lift the car in order to dig it out. Yet, at the end of the day, the few cars that travel to the toic mainly retreat across the river. Three cars found us there. Each one stopped to help in the rescue. In the end, the only driver who could force the car free was the driver of the government's large mounted gun. But, more than ever, I was reminded that God had given me a community who would take care of me and who are willing to stop to help.

Safe Travels for the Marol Teachers
Gordon, Joyce and Floyd (a new Kenyan teacher) safely landed in Juba on Thursday. At about the same time a Feeder (private, South Sudanese company) plane was about to land on Wau's airstrip. Having circled a couple of times before landing, on-lookers thought that something was wrong. As it touched the ground on the third attempt, the tyre burst, the nose hit the ground and flames erupted from the nose and wing. Amazingly all the passengers managed to rush from the plane with only a few suffering minor injuries. Yet, the plane itself was burnt and dented. Flights for Feeder have been cancelled indefinitely; Gordon, Joyce and Floyd had hoped to fly with Feeder. The Wau airstrip is also closed to all airlines for the time being. Marol Academy is about to open for 2012, and the Marol cohort are now stranded in Juba.

By the grace of God and meeting the right people at the right moment, the cohort are now safely booked onto a UN flight. These planes have a very good safety record. Yet, they still will not fly until the Wau airstrip is reopened.

Please thank God for:

1. the provision of safety both for the passengers who flew and for these Marol three who were meant to fly on the same plane two days later; 
2. the provision of UN flights and contacts for the week ahead.

Please pray for:

1. God to use their time in Juba so that they know the delay was ordained by him;
2. logistical arrangements to work well so that they reach Wau soon; 
3. safety in all their travels until God calls them home.

Safety in the Toic
My yesterday was spent in one of the last villages before the Warrap-Unity State border. For two decades now, annual raids across this border have killed hundreds. Last year, children were buried here after a significant raid. Yesterday, enough of the neighbouring tribe had been seen nearby for it to be the only topic of conversation in the market. Even the court was suspended. Raids to cross the border were also being planned. Peace seems like a distant dream. Please pray.

A few of my most recent thoughts can be found here.

A Little Girl
Under the gapping tree, sixty people sat at the feet of the chief waiting for his judgement over their case. One-by-one they would tell their story. The chief, with his elders' support, would decide the outcome. One case involved a small girl whose father I knew. Biologically the daughter of another man, she had been born in her father's house. Her mum and father were now married. Yet, now she was about six years old, the biological father was demanding her back. She had never met him before. She did not want to go. Her father was fighting to keep her. Yet, she was given to the biological father on the condition that he gave cattle. Just pray that she is not frightened and that she feels loved by both families.

Peace and Prayers

Any reluctance has now passed, and the sun is streaming down on South Sudan with its full dry-season heat. March and April always bring uncontrollable, defeating weather. The afternoons are spent beneath the nearest tree and even the mornings fail to bring a moment of cold. There is comfort in knowing that the pounding heat must come before it passes to the cooler days of the early rain.

This week, the tree I hid beneath was in Leitnhom (the county capital). I had the privilege of attending peace meetings with chiefs and women leaders. It was humbling to here their stories of war, their desire for security and their perceptions of the necessity of conflict. Gathering from all the corners of the land of the Apuk Dinka, their experiences of deadly violence, displacement from their homelands and loss of their sons were vast and raw. The hot, dry season brings increased expectation of deadly conflict.

Yet, being with other women really humbled me. Dressed in their finest colours, the meeting often broke down into dancing and song. Most women were many years older than me, with numerous children and even more grandchildren. Yet, one girl was a few years younger than me. Despite her age, she was already widowed. The mother of one, the life ahead of her was decided by that early marriage, her husband's death and family obligations that will bind her to her husband's household. I know I still dream of all I will see and do in the years ahead of me. They're exciting in their unpredictability. I wonder how I ended up in such a different position from her.

Things to pray for:
1) Peace Meetings
This coming week will see the youths gathered from across the county to discuss peace. Please pray for soft hearts and lots of wisdom.

2) Teachers for Marol
The sandy path cuts through the empty fields and around the thorny hedges of people's farms. Forest then quickly surrounds you as the car keeps bumping forwards. They assure me that people live nearby, but sprawling bush and beautiful trees are all I can see. The occasional cow promises that there must be people nearby. It is another fifty minutes of the sweltering heat of the car before we meet the regions capital - a tiny market with half a dozen, grass huts. Here is the most distant home of a pupil of the Marol secondary school. Last year his exam results were the best, so the village celebrated and feasted. Now, he hopes to excel again in his second year. Yet, at the moment, there is still no conformation that there will be new Kenyan teachers to allow the full functioning of the secondary school at Marol this coming year. Loice will return to serve these students, and a young graduate called Floyd has also volunteered. Yet, there is a massive need for more teachers and for funding to support these sacrificial workers. Pray hard that God will provide. The Kenyan Christian union is still trying to assist us.